Gluten Free Travel Post: St. Croix, USVI

I’m going to be featuring vacations and places I’ve visited the last few years! Partially so I can record my experience but also to share how I was able to visit and survive(most times) Gluten Free (GF)!

The reason these are so delayed is because I didn’t have time to write up any of my experiences the last few years but it’s better late than never. Unfortunately, the island of St. Croix had been damaged from recent hurricanes so I’m not aware of the current status of the places I’ll mention. The information provided below are from 2017 when I visited. You might have to do more research to see if the places I listed below are up and running again or not.

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Why visit St. Croix (US Virgin Island)?

I wanted to go somewhere I had never been before but I didn’t want to travel alone so I went with my mom. She’s fantastic, easy going and also has to eat Gluten Free so she understands the struggle. But she didn’t have a passport so we couldn’t go anywhere out of the country. I also wanted to go somewhere tropical with beaches and St. Croix looked good! I wanted to get away but had been busy at work.

I chose St. Croix over the other US Virgin Islands because I wanted to try a more off the beaten path than Saint Thomas which is the more touristy island. I booked this trip 2 weeks before flying out and it probably wasn’t my smartest decision for getting the best deals. I just wanted to get away and relax.

How long was the flight and where did you stay?

It took about 15 hours one way and 11 hours the other but we made it in one piece! I think we had 2 layovers each way. When we arrived, it was dark and humid (we visited in June 2017 and spent it there during my mom’s birthday). We took a taxi (where the rates are standardized (about $20 one way at the time of my trip without tips) but research to be sure) and headed to our Airbnb which had a self-check in.

It was my first time booking an Airbnb and everything worked out smoothly, although I struggled to check in at first because I couldn’t find the mailbox since it was dark. After we fumbled around for the key it went well. I did have to request towels as there were none in the bathroom but they arrived the next morning with bottles of water which was nice. We were surprised to find it outside the door when we woke up.

Our host was gracious and responsive to my texts prior to our trip as I had asked ahead if there were any good places that served local GF food or where we could buy GF groceries. She gave a few recommendations and we took them. (More on that below)

The Airbnb was a nice studio which worked out well for the two of us. Unfortunately I didn’t take any photos during the stay as it wasn’t really significant. I did notice there were ants that would sneak into the kitchen, especially if we left any food out. We learned that the first day but the Airbnb provided bug spray to kill the ants. I’m sure this is part of island life and didn’t bother us much once we figured that out. Just be sure not to be messy but that’s the case of anywhere you go, right? ^_~

What did you eat?

My mom and I had already agreed that if we ate out, we’d do that during lunch when the prices are cheaper than dinner. For the rest of the time we would get groceries and cook for ourselves. Although it took us some time (well mainly me because I can be indecisive) to figure out which groceries to buy so that we didn’t leave any left over.

Groceries: Seaside Market & Deli – As this is my first time on an island in the USA, I was a bit sticker shocked by the prices. Everything cost more than I expected. Now this is no fault of the store, it was my naivete and lack of experience traveling that caused my shock. I want to warn those who have never traveled to an island to expect generally higher prices than on the mainland. Except perhaps if you live in big cities or states like New York or California. I live in the Midwest so those prices weren’t what I was used to seeing in my grocery store. It opened my eyes to the world which is part of traveling and made me grateful for the prices I do pay back at home.

Harvey’s: I wanted to try local Caribbean food and Harvey’s was delicious. When I mentioned gluten free, the server knew what we could eat or not. It was great! We also don’t like spicy foods so we were concerned that it’d be spicy for us but it was completely fine! Harvey’s is family owned and the decorations charming, the server (Harvey’s son) told us stories about the photos. The food was cooked by Harvey’s wife and we were served by Harvey’s son who chatted with us a bit since we were the first people there for a bit. I really enjoyed the food but was sad to hear that once Harvey’s wife decides not to cook anymore, they will close which could be in a few years. I’m grateful for the opportunity to try this homemade food.

Sai Gon Deli’s: We wanted some pho which is hilarious because it was so humid outside. It was good pho and we had some spring rolls but I have to say that I’ve had better at home than here. I think the soup didn’t have as much flavor as I had hoped or am used to but still a nice place if you’re craving pho.

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Activities:

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• Walked the Harbor: This was the first thing we did since it was close and we had no transporation. I had thought there was a beach that was walkable where we were but I was wrong (Google maps did not have any satellite images or views). We did this in maybe 15-30 minutes but it was sunny and humid so we didn’t want to stay out too long.
• Visited Fort Christiansvaern and Fort Frederiksted: We walked around and explored the area for a bit but we didn’t go inside. It was nice and breezy at Christiansvaern and Frederiksted was interesting to see from the harbor. They did look worn from the sun and waves.
• Rented a car: If you plan to drive, be sure to schedule your rental before you arrive. I wish I had since prices were cheaper than when I called a few days into our trip. I think we rented it from Wednesday to Saturday (the end of our trip) For the first time in my life I drove on the opposite side of the road. I typically drive on the “right” side of the road but on St. Croix they drive on the “left” side of the road. However, the cars are just like the ones we drive in the USA where the driver side is on the “left”. I took it extremely careful and my mom had to remind me which direction to stay on especially as I made turns. I kept wanting to stay in the right lane which I should stay on the left. haha We made it ok overall but fortunately there didn’t seem to be many drivers during my time on the island. This island does not have a bus system and as far as I know didn’t have Uber or Lyft. Only taxis or rented cars.
• Drove to several beaches: We went to I think 3 beaches but only stayed at 2. They were all free. The 3rd was on the way home and it was getting dark and I didn’t want to drive in the completely dark. They didn’t have many street lamps and I was unfamiliar with the roads. One beach was secluded but they were all free that we went to. The sand was soft and the waters lovely.
• Feral chickens: The culture shock that probably surprised me most were the wild chickens running around and hearing the rooster calls. It was strange to see them on the road eating fallen fruits from trees. I even saw several families with cute little chicks following them around. It made me feel like I was more in the country than the city where I usually live. The chickens would cross the streets and where I live, sometimes they don’t move or take their time moving but these chickens would move quickly when they see you driving by. They seemed to be used to people because they generally didn’t run away. People might feed them too but I didn’t see it while I was there. I did see a stray donkey and later some riders on horse back which was interesting.
• Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve: I didn’t plan this well and we arrived a half hour before it closed but the person who worked there was fantastic and allowed us to look around and talk for a bit even after closing hours. I highly recommend visiting. It’s beautiful up there but be aware that my data usage was spotty so I got a bit lost trying to get here following my phone GPS. It was a bit treacherous driving to this place too. At a certain point, the roads turned to all small rocks and driving a sedan wasn’t the best since I was concerned I’d damage the rental car. Also I was afraid someone would be driving as I’m driving up because at one point I think there was only one lane but fortunately there were few people around. The funny thing is that I found out that a family that was there before us and the guy who worked we were all from the same mainland state. So being there at the same time made it a funny coincidence.

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Lessons and tips learned…

• Not to take the costs of my local groceries for granted. Island prices will be more than most mainland items.
• Chickens are smarter than I originally thought.
• Driving on the opposite side of the road is a challenge but doable! Be sure to take it slow. Consider buying the insurance to be sure you don’t have a heart attack if someone side swipes you or you’re in an accident.
• Do extra research to determine if that travel location is truly for you. While I enjoyed my time on St. Croix. I think this is the first time I realized that there is a thing that is “too chill” for me. It’s also my first time visiting an island of this size. My mom and I spent most of the time in our Airbnb because I had thought there would be more things to do like shopping or sight seeing but we visited almost everything I wanted to see within 3 to 4 days. In the end we were fairly bored at the end of the trip, well rested, but we thought there’d be more to see and explore. Perhaps it’s my “go, go, go” city mindset and my need for constant stimuli but it still taught me things and allowed me a glimpse of island life. I am extremely grateful for the opportunity but it’s something to be aware of if you travel to somewhere new. Different cities and places have different vibes and as a person who doesn’t travel much, this is eye opening to me.

Overall, I enjoyed this trip and I learned a lot! I think I really did need the rest while I visited. It’s a lovely island and we seemed to have little issues eating Gluten Free here. I’d recommend visiting if you want a chill island to visit that is easily drive-able. I think I could drive the whole island in a few hours but I didn’t try. That’s all I can remember after a few years. I regret not writing this all down immediately but I think I still retained a good amount of information. Feel free to comment or email me if you have any questions I can help answer.

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